Keep repeating this process, removing the high spots in the throat until the cutting edge of the blade drops to within a couple of millimeters above the mouth opening. We have created these special content collections organized to give you a deep dive into a range of topics that matter. One thing that you will quickly discover is that you get what you pay for. Some Japanese planes have soles about the same size as Western planes. Even so, the intention of these centenarian tools is to face any task of general brushing and smoothing. We will find from basic versions for beginners up to high quality blue steel blades for experts. Line F. Then, 24 mm toward the heel of the plane from line F, mark a line square across the top. This stresses the dai as it will be during use, so check the bottom of the dai for flatness using a straightedge. The Japanese planes are readily available to buy, although I just want to see if I can make one out of scraps of wood and metal laying around with minimal tools and effort. The cut should be the width of the blade. Since you're removing so little material, this process takes almost no time at all. Remember to not burn the hard metal. are optimized for Western-style tools, though I do use a Japanese dovetail saw. In traditional Japanese woodworking, craftsmen do not use sandpaper. If it is possible, it is better to choose a hand plane with blue steel. For hardwood, an angle of 42 degrees is recommended. If so (and even if not so), then I highly recommend that you buy a GOOD QUALITYhand plane as your first one, so that you have a solid base line on which to judge the quality and function of the rest of your plane acquisitions. The time you dedicate to learning how to finesse a plane for ultimate performance will be rewarded. Now is time the square the body by planing the sides, top and bottom. The final dimensions of the body will be 9.5 inches long and 1 3/8 inches thick.
Then lay your slightly wedge-shaped iron on the side of the body. Because of their minimal height and low center of gravity, the planes ride well on wood and tend to wobble less than their Western relatives. Other than appearance, the most striking difference between these and Western planes is the direction of planing: Japanese planes cut on the pull stroke, similar to Japanese saws. The layout of the blade is set between 40-45 , they has a wide of 36-40 mm and a thickness of 4mm. Thanks for the info and links. Turn the plane around. Yes. though it has only less than 300 members the knowledge is quite deep and people are very helpfull. In this way, we get a movement that allows working for hours without a great effort on your arms and legs. I shaped the wedge before laminating with an angle grinder. The maintenance is greater with a wooden plane, smoothing and flattening the belly. You can find out more about which cookies we are using or switch them off in settings. I find that laminating idea quite fascinating and was wondering if you have any other examples of it being used. However, I have used some of LV's other tools; all quite good, and their customer service is superb, as is LN's. M Lines. When the attack angle is lower, the cut is smoother. Finally, set the depth and lateral position of the cutting edge with light taps on the blade [Photo H]. 5 years ago. The "common plane" comes in different widths. A longer sole ahead of the blade helps steady the plane on the workpiece at the start of the stroke. A hand-forged blade and chip breaker may not fit together perfectly at first. Once I cracked a blade tapping it out and had to regrind the bevel, I started thinking about other options for future planes. The plane is made of either Japanese red or white oak, while the blade is a lamination of hard iron to softer iron. If the plane will be used as a smoothing plane, the slot between the iron and the front of the mouth should be kept as narrow as possible. Make test cuts and adjust the blade until you get full-width, onion-skin-thin shavings that leave a smooth surface. So take the time to do it right and cut a perfectly-fitted bed to hold the iron properly. Until that time, surfaces were smoothed with the so-called spear planes, called yari ganna. While the tradition of Western hand planes tended towards the technological improvement of the brush itself, the Japanese ones focused on improving the brushing technique. You might be disappointed if you choose the Japanese style plane simply to save a few dollars, though. The corners of the breaker hammered over to create a tight fit between the blade and rod. 7 years ago I would be interested in how well the epoxy laminated blade works and if it is holding up. A steel or wood counter blade to avoid splinters, A nut to hold the blade and the counter blade. I just made two of them and although they are not ready to photograph they work really well. This is easiest to do with a traditional plane, called "dai-naoshi-ganna" (literally, a plane to tune plane stocks). For the body, any hard, durable wood will work. That being said the Lie Neilsen planes are a joy to use and other than a little bit of sharpening they are ready to go right out of the box. The Japanese plane is unique because the bottom is not flat. This feature perhaps was borrowed from Western tools at that time. Also, the cost of a Japanese plane is significantly less than a similarly sized Lie-Nielsen, which is a bit of a consideration. The position is based on a 60/40 division of the length of the board, with 60% in front of the iron and 40% behind it. To reduce friction, the soles of traditional Japanese planes are planed slightly concave. But as a block plane they seem to work well. Wow i like it! Some blade-makers have such a reputation for quality that their planes cost well over $1,000. In addition, they remain sharp for longer than white steel. Let Mother Nature be your co-designer as you build dazzling projects with wavy edges, bristly burrs, bark inclusions, and other flaws that give wood a look of unrefined beauty. The blacksmith stamps his mark on every plane blade. The blade differs from that on a Western plane in other ways, too. Instead I sawed the body blank in half with a hand saw and sketched a final dimensions(pic #2). If you decide to go with Western metal planes, buy either LN, LV, or Clifton, or go for vintage (pre-WWII) Stanley, Millers Falls, Sargent, etc. On planes like this one, with a chipbreaker fitted, the angle on the face of the throat away from the iron is about 80 degrees. Such a grain orientation allows the plane to glide over the wood more smoothly, and wear on the sole is reduced. Each blade-maker uses a unique combination of forging techniques and metals that make his blades unique. That said, if you're a guy who likes to chart his own course and is willing to work a little harder to get the information you need, there's no doubt that equivalently great work can be done with either set of tools. Though they provide no totes or knobs, they perfectly suit a two-handed grip [ opening photo]. Any planeyou buy from LN should be ready to plane whisper-thin shavings right out of the box; their quality control is very good, but if not, take/send it back for a replacement. It is sort of an experimentation. UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month. Lay the iron centered on top of the stock as shown, and trace its width to establish the width of the rabbets. Still, you can find them in sizes similar to Western planes [Photo A]. This helps ensure a sharp cutting edge but also provides the foundation for a tight-fitting chip breaker. With the eastern, we refer to Japanese hand planes, some fabulous tools for woodworking. The blacksmith starts with a hard, but brittle, steel for the cutting edge. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google, Scraper plane leaves surface rougher than smoothing plane, Editor's Letter: Technology and the future of woodworking. Their hardness and resistance to torsion make them the best option. In hardwoods, as you would expect, is harder to work and require better blades and greater dedication. on Introduction. If mainly soft woods, then Japanese planes make good sense; for hard wood, somewhat less good sense (this is not to say that Japanese planes won't work on hard woods -- they do -- just that they tend to be more oriented toward softer woods). =
The ideal plane for rabbeting, panel raising and trimming tenons. Japanese plane makers mark the angle with a traditional graduated carpenters square, but you can also use a sliding bevel and protractor. Another must do project :DIf you (like me) need some more instructions how to make the blade, look at this video for guidelines https://youtu.be/04EKQs04B4k. Reading between the lines of your post, I gather that you have relatively little or no previous woodworking experience. I can see why the need for really stable timber is a good position to work from on the plane. The thick end is 5/16" and the thin end is 3/16".
Because of its high hardness, there is very little wear on the sole of plane. The flat bar is a cheap, soft metal which will make the wedge of the blade while the saw blade will add thickness between the soft and hard metal. File and smooth the chipbreaker so it sits flat on the blade without gaps at the cutting edge. Your email address will not be published. You want a smooth edge and polished surface so shavings slide up and out of the throat, but the edge doesn't need to be razor sharp. Reply }. What I like about them is the simplicity, the pulling action, it seems to give me more control on the cut, and the heavier blade, it reduces chatter. Share it with us! The wood is only 3/4 inch thick so two pieces will be glued together for a thickness of 1.5 inches. I didnt' know that 'pull' planes existed. Its difficult to explane in english but I want to know what is japanese planes cutting angle? Line A. Clark & Williams, Steve Knight, and ECE all make excellent modern wooden hand planes. The more expensive ones (at least here in Japan) have hand forged blades. The blade is a wedge that tightens the further the blade is set. The two narrow strips along the edges of the blade and the area directly behind the cutting edge form a flat reference surface. If you had to recommend three, which hand planes should I start with? All Rights Reserved. Don't fret; you can find perfectly suitable planes for no more than you would spend on a new Western plane. In-depth articles, up-close photography, and detailed illustrations. Traditional Japanese hand planes consist of: As in the West, there is a wide range of measures for hand planes. A couple of good choicesfor a first plane would be either a LN adjustable mouth low angle block plane or a LN bronze #4. After a day to let the epoxy dry, I ground the blade to a 25 degree angle and honed it to a razors edge. Converts from Western hand planes insist the steel in a Japanese plane provides a smoother finish on their work, with additional tactile feedback and an intimate connection with the workpiece. Is it OK to copy projects from the magazine? An optional third contact point at the shorter end of the dai keeps the plane from tipping at the end of the stroke and is helpful when planing narrow stock. I've been doing more research, and I realize that by going the Japanese plane route, I won't be getting the "out of the box" experience, but that's actually not a big issue for me. The two ends of the plane body, or dai, are named "atama" for the front, or toe, and "shiri" for the back, or heel.
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