This means,Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 does have some ability to smooth wrinkles (but not as well as Botox - sorry, if we sound like a broken record). Estrogenic activity was confirmed only in-vitro (in test tubes) and when taken orally by lab animals, and not when used topically as you would normally. It only protects against UVB and notUVA rays (the 320-400 nm range) soalways choose products that contain other sunscreens too. It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. A commonwater-loving surfactant and emulsifierthat helps to keep water and oil mixed nicelytogether. Like most essential oils, it contains antioxidant and antimicrobial components, but the main ones are fragrant constituents. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephenwrites on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". The essential oil coming from the flowers of bitter orange. It thickens up water-free formulas, increases hardness and raises the meltingpoint ofemulsions and water-less balms. Be careful with it, if your skin is sensitive. It is the global gold standard of UVA protection and is the most used UVA sunscreen in the world. The problem with it, though, is that it isnot photostable and degrades in the sunlight. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three monthsand 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. To make it more stable it can be - and should be - combined withother sunscreen agents to give stable and broad-spectrum protection (the new generation sunscreen agent, Tinosorb S is a particularly good one for that). A double-blind study using a 2.5% LA gel for 4 weeks found a 25% reduction in the size ofmicrocomedones,the tiny blocked pores that can later lead to acne. Not bad! Its mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Contains fragrant components that give it a nice sweet smell. A common fragrance ingredient that smells like rose and can be found in rose oil. A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer. To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it ATIP in short). Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. An error has occurred. In-vitro (made in the labs) studies have shown that it might have some estrogenic activity. Compared to the pure form it's more stable, has longer shelf life, but it's also more poorly absorbed by the skin. In theory, it can speed up the lipolysis process (the "fat burning" by our cells) andstimulate the draining lymph system that might lead to the improvement of cellulite. Please try again later! In reality, it's nowhere near that powerful, but it can smooth wrinkles to some extent by preventing facial muscles from contracting. Its a solid white stuff thats very alkaline and used in small amounts to adjust the pH of the product and make it just right. So we will skip right to the part where we talk about what the hell it does in so-so many cosmetic products. A study made in the UK with 483 people tested the allergic reaction to 3% oxidised linalool and 2.3% had positive test results. Itabsorbs UVB radiation (at wavelengths: 280-320 nm) with a peak protection at 310nm. It still often shows up in the ingredient list of soaps and other cleansers. A so-calledfatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that does all kinds of things in a skincare product: it makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). A common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like smell. allowed 10% concentration) and it isnot photostable (looses 10% of its SPF protection in 45 mins) so it alwayshas to be combined with other sunscreens for properprotection. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. Best to avoid if you have sensitive skin. It is also an essential fatty acid meaning our body cannot synthesizeit and has to take it from food. For example, in case of AHA or BHA exfoliants, the right pH is super-duper important, and pH adjusters like sodium hydroxide are needed. Btw, Xanthan gum is all natural, a chain of sugar molecules (polysaccharide) produced from individual sugar molecules (glucose and sucrose) via fermentation. On the skin, it is water-binding properties and helps to keep your skin hydrated. LA is not only important for dry, barrier damaged skin types but also for acne-prone skin. Theessential oil comingfrom the rind of the grapefruit. As it's an essential oil with lots of fragrant components,be careful with it if your skin is sensitive. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning its the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It often comes to the formula as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio. It is a super versatile polymer (molecule from repeated subunits) and when it comes to cosmetics, it is often referred to as microbeads. If you are looking for rich emollient benefits + more, shea is hard to beat. A thick, paste-like emollient ester that is touted as a vegetable-derived lanolin alternative. Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. It can be used in concentrations ofup to 10% in the EU and up to 6% in the US. A nice, multi-functional helper ingredient that's especially useful in sunscreens. It can solubilize and stabilize commonly used UV-filters and has a cosmetically elegant, emollient skin feel. Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. It contains several fragrance components including linalool (around 30%) and limonene (around 10%) and has a lovely sweet smell. Be carefulwith it if it is in a product for daytime use. Do not panic, the studies were not conducted under real life conditions on real human people, so it is probably over-cautious to avoidOctinoxate altogether. A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. Not photostable and does not protect against UVA. The unfancy name for it is lye. As a super well-known stimulant from coffee, tea and plenty of other soft drinks,Caffeine needs no introduction. Do not panic, these studies were not conducted on real humans under real world conditions. lemon, orange, lime or lemongrass. Fatty alcohols have a long oil-soluble (and thus emollient) tailpart that makes them absolutelynon-drying and non-irritating and are totally ok for the skin. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. This is not hard at all as plenty of nuts (such as flax, poppy or sesame seeds) and vegetable oils (such as sunflower or safflower) are rich in LA. Though conventional wisdom and anecdotal evidence says that this property is helpful for dark under-eye circles and puffy eyes, we have to mention that the double-blind research we have found about a 3% caffeine gel concluded that "the overall efficacy of the selected caffeine gel in reducing puffy eyes was not significantly different from that of its gel base." It often comes to the formula as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio (with Polyacrylamide and Laureth-7). The common plastic molecule that is used as a white wax to give hardness and slip to the formulas. Homosalate isnot a strong UV filter in and of itself (gives only SPF 4.3 protection at max. Theessential oil coming from the flowers of Rose Geranium. alcohol. On the up side, sunscreens are pretty wellregulated in several parts of the world, and BP-3 is considered "safe as used" and is an allowed sunscreen agent everywhere. It isnot very stable either, when exposed to sunlight, it kind of breaks down andloses itseffectiveness(not instantly, but over time - it loses 10% of its SPF protection ability within 35 mins). As for the skin, it's a great hydrating plant oil, that can also reduce inflammation and irritation. Its safe and gentle, but even more importantly, its not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. Though chemically speaking, it is alcohol (as in, it has an -OH group in its molecule), its properties are totally different from the properties of low molecular weight or drying alcohols such as denat. It is the most abundant fatty acid in the epidermis and it serves as a structural precursor for important skin lipids called ceramides. It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. Thats why a product containing linalool that has been opened for several months is more likely to be allergenic than a fresh one. However, if you find a formula that you love and contains BP-3, we do not think that you should throw it away. Its the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF,hyaluronic acid(HA). A not-very-interesting helper ingredient that is used as an emulsifier and/or surfactant. A commonwater-loving surfactant and emulsifierthat helps to keep water and oil mixed nicelytogether. About 25% of the goopy stuff between our skin cells consists of cholesterol. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. It's a petroleum derived emollient and thickener. This trio is an easy-to-use liquid that helps to create nice, non-tacky gel formulas. Probably thats why citric acid is usually not used as an exfoliant but more as a helper ingredient in small amounts to adjust the pH of a formulation. Overall,Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is an old-school chemical sunscreen agent. It is claimed to boostthe production of important extracellular matrix components(the gooey stuff between the skin cells) such as hyaluronic acid, collagenI and fibronectin. Just like other similar fragrance ingredients (like linalool and limonene) geraniol also oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. An oil-soluble chemical sunscreen agent that protects the skin from UVB (295-315 nm) with a peak protection at 306 nm. Overall, linoleic acid is a multi-functional skin goodiewith barrier repairing, acne-reducing, and skin-lightening magic abilities. A clear, oil-soluble, "cosmetically-elegant" liquid that is the most commonly usedchemical sunscreen. If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. There are two primary types of Chamomile, the German and the Roman. The oil coming from the seeds of the nice, little, yellow-flowered plant called Evening Primrose. It's a film-forming and thickening polymer (a large molecule composed of many repeated subunits) that comes to the formula usually as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio (with C13-14 Isoparaffin and Laureth-7, trade named Sepigel 305). It gives very good protection acrossthe whole UVA range (310-400 nmthat is both UVA1 and UVA2) with a peak protection at 360 nm. A chemical sunscreen agent that absorbs UVB and short UVA rays (280-350nm). In fact, a 2004 follow-up study to examine the estrogenic effect of sunscreens when used topically on the whole body found that "the endogenous levels of reproductive hormones were unaffected" (even though BP-3 could be detected both in plasma and urine, so its absorption is no doubt too good). In-vivo (made on real people) tests showed that using 10% Argireline solution around the eyes for 15 days decreased wrinkles depth by 17%. Comes from a coconut oil derived fatty alcohol, lauryl alcohol. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. LA deficiency leads to an impairedmore permeable skin barrier and the topical application of LA-rich sunflower oil can fix this issue rapidly (while oleic-rich olive oil did not have the same barrier repairing effect). A clear, odorless, very light emollient ester that helps to achieve light textures. With thiscontext in mind let's see whatATIP might be able to do. A type fo sugar, usuallyrefined from cane or beet sugar. A plant extract that comes from wheat germ. It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only haveto be absorbed into the skin but also have to beconverted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. Might be helpful for dark circles, puffy eyes, as well as cellulite and hair loss. It's also touted as a volatile (evaporates from the skin rather than absorbs into it) silicone alternative, especially to replace Cyclomethiconemixes. However, if you are pregnant or a small child(under 2 yrs. A fatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient. Also, we have to agree with TruthInAging, that it's not a collagen builder and not a preventer of structural aging (think vitamin C, AHAs or retinol); it's just a quick fix. An oil-soluble chemical sunscreen agent that protects the skin from UVB (295-315 nm) with a peak protection at 306 nm. It can be found in many plant oils, e.g. It's a nice one to spot on the ingredient list pretty muchfor any skin type. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. A supercommon and cheap fragrance ingredient. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. It'sideal to solubilizesunscreen agents and fragrances. A helper ingredient that helps to neutralize the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. It was already used by ancient Egyptians to help oil and fat magically turn into something else. It has a smooth spreadability and touch, and itgives a substantive film to protect and moisturize the skin. In general, the more sour-bitter the fruit, the more problematic it is regarding phototoxicity: orange and clementine peel contain less of it while lemon, grapefruit, and bergamot containsome more. All in all, limonene has some pros and cons, but - especially if your skin is sensitive -the cons probably outweigh the pros. If these magic three letters dont tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. It is a special snowflake as it isthe only globally available chemical sunscreen agent that provides proper UVA protection (in the US,new generation sunscreen agents are not approved because of impossible FDA regulations). It's produced sustainably from corn sugar and it's Ecocert approved. Octinoxate - an old-school chemical sunscreen that absorbs UVB radiation (wavelengths: 280-320 nm). So this one is the famous peptidethat's marketed by its manufacturer as the "Botox in a jar". But here again, the evidence that it actually makes a measurable, let alone visible, improvement on actualhuman beings is limited (we could find only some animal skin studies or caffeine being combined with other actives). Regarding Homosalate's safety profile, we do not have the best news. Both has soothing properties, but the German one contains more anti-inflammatory actives (like chamazulene). The most common skincare ingredient of all. It has great spreadability, a good slip, and a silky skin feel. A film-forming and thickening polymer (a large molecule composed of many repeated subunits) that comes to the formula usually as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio. It is a so-called polyunsaturated fatty acid meaning it has more than one (in this case two) double bonds and a somewhat kinky structure that makes LA and LA-rich oils a thin liquid.It is also an essential fatty acid meaning our body cannot synthesize. In fact, it absorbs so well that 4 hours after application of a sunscreen product with BP-3,it can be detected in urine. A super common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams. Still, if you are a 'better safe than sorry' type, be careful when using Homosalate containing sunscreens long-term and full-body. Similar to other plant oils, it's loaded with nourishing and moisturizing fatty acids. Overall, we think that caffeine is a very versatile and biologically activeingredient. A well-known thing about Caffeine isthat it improves the microcirculation of the blood vessels. Homosalate isnot a strong UV filter in and of itself (gives only SPF 4.3 protection at max. A natural corn sugar derived glycol. Well,it used to be referred to as microbeads, as it wasbanned in 2015 in the "Microbead-Free Waters Act" due to the small plastic spheres accumulating in the waters and looking like food to fish. Its often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. An emollient plant oil loaded with nourishing and moisturizing fatty acids. In general, the main component of citrus peel oils islimonene(86-95% for grapefruit peel), a super common fragrant ingredient thatmakes everything smell nice(but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer). We have found some recent and promising research to back this up. If you are looking for one, this could be your thing. Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-calledrheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). A popular, vegetable-derived oil-loving emulsifier that helps water to mix with oil. A sunscreen with BP-3 is definitely better than no sunscreen. Its safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. The anti-inflammatory action of the Roman Chamomile is due to phenolic compounds and - according to manufacturer info- it also has some nice skin toning properties. A petroleum-derived emollient and thickener. Can you guess what? It comes from the seeds of African Shea or KariteTreesand used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. So now, you know that Vitamin C is great and all, but it's really unstable and gives cosmetics companies many headaches. (We also checkedProspector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Oil, Whey Protein\Lactis Protein\Proteine Du Petit-Lait, You can read all about the pure form here, eating a healthy ratio of omega-6 to omega-3. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! If that was not enough, we have one more thing to report about LA. It's in many plants, e.g. As for safety, avobenzone has a pretty good safety profile. It also contains oleic acid, but not too much around 6-15%. It's readily biodegradable. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. It autoxidizes on air exposure and counts as a common skin sensitizer. Thanks. A stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, that might have (in-vitro results) all the magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener). The downside of it is that it oxidises on air exposure and might become allergenic. Bobbi Brown Extra Repair Moisturizing Balm SPF 25. It does smellnice but the problemis that it oxidizes on air exposure and the resulting stuff is not good for the skin. A popular, vegetable-derived oil-loving emulsifier that helps water to mix with oil. Together with ceramides and fatty acids, they play a vital role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin hydrated. Once in the skin, it has nice antioxidant properties, meaning that it reduces the formation of evil free radicals and it mighteven be useful in preventing UV-induced skin cancers. Its pretty much the current IT-preservative. But you know, the proof is in the pudding. It cansolubilize somecommonly used UV-filterslike Oxybenzone or Avobenzone and it can also help to increase the SPF rating of sunscreens. Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid calledstearic acid. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacyor to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. It used to be used as microbeads as well but was banned in 2015 due to environmental reasons. But being versatile means that polyethylene does not only come as scrub particles but also as a white wax. Oh, and according to Wikipedia, it even helps to stabilize famously unstable UVA-filter, Avobenzone. In a 2001 worldwide study with 178 people with known sensitization to fragrances citronellol tested positive in 5.6% of the cases. Hexylene Glycol is also part a preservative blend namedLexgard. All in all, a real goodie especially for dry, easily irritated skin. It has nice antioxidant properties and can improve the microcirculation. Its a handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel. As cosmetic chemistColins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt". In itself, it is suitable for water-in-oil emulsions (where water droplets are dispersed in oil), but it is more often used as a co-emulsifier next to other,water-loving emulsifiers. A thick, paste-like emollient ester that works as a vegetable derived lanolin alternative. A Spanish University also did some research and found thatArgireline increased the level of skin moisturization and decreased both the depth and width of wrinkles "significantly". It is particularly common in cleansing balms and stick-type makeup products due to its ability to add body, hardness and slip to these formulas. Bottom line: a really promising, but not well-proven vitamin C derivative that can be worth a try especially if you like experimenting (but if you likethe tried and true, pure vitamin Cwill be your best bet). Research shows that problem skin haslower levels of linoleic acid (and higher levels of oleic acid) than normal skin. The maximum concentration of avobenzone permitted is 5% in the EU and 3% in the US.

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