In another world, that caption would not have caused much ruckus, were it true. The article also looks at the homogenising of Muslim identity inherent in modest fashion which discounts racial diversity among Muslims (especially Black Muslims), class, and the variety of spiritual leanings within Islam, such as sufism or salafism. I think this is something to be celebrated, so I dont believe that labelling it as modest is a negative thing. The reason we need to discuss this subject, more than anything, is because the act of calling a woman backward or regressive for dressing in modest clothing, is inherently problematic. The designers were really coming from a high-end or traditional perspective. Is it time to rip off the modest and just call it fashion? Vogue France was criticised for publishing an Instagram photo showing actress and model Julia Fox wearing a headscarf, with the caption Yes to the headscarf. There was no context and no explanation given for it. Click on the conversation bubble to join the conversation, PwC Cloud and Digital Transformation BrandVoice, How To Earn Cash Rewards For Everyday Spending. But John persevered, investing her own money to get the business off the ground. Meet Shafali Verma, The New Dynamite Of Indian Womens Cricket. To have an inclusive approach and attitude is more progressive, said Antelawala. Such design issues will be addressed by global fashion brands as more discussions take place and as more influencers raise awareness of Muslim womens dressing preferences, according to Dr. El Mutwalli. With Western retailers, its a marketing ploy thats quite effective for reaching their target demographic, especially when the faces of these ranges are real Muslim women from the communities theyre targeting, as opposed to regular models with hijabs stuck onto them just for show. As things stand, John says female Muslims are already spending $48 billion a year on modest fashion and that figure can only grow. Many women embrace modest dressing because it rejects that notion of what women should be, and what is important for women in this world of ours. It is designed to emphasise the physical features of a womans body that men find attractive (or the features that are considered, by men and women, to be attractive in our male-dominated culture). In two photos, West wears a balaclava with only his eyes visible. According to the Pew Research Institute, the Muslim population is set to grow from a current level of 1.6 billion to 2.8 billion in 2050. It is, as John acknowledges, a movement.. One reason why a woman might want to dress modestly is a practical reason modest clothing is often more comfortable and easier to get around in. I believe [modest fashion] demands its own space, just like plus size, maternity, athleisure/sports, evening wear, and other categories. Well, the look is modest but not necessarily Islamic. An award winning media company committed to sharing the perspectives of people of colour from marginalised genders. What we need to remedy are the social evils due to which women who dont choose to dress modestly, feel forced to dress modestly. She also benchmarked the concept of conservative chic through her brand Rabia Z. Billie then talked about the negative impact of such scrutiny, and mentioned that she dresses the way she does because she doesnt want to be sexualised. And that is where Vogue France and others have gotten it so wrong. While these were largely celebrated by Muslim women around 2016-2017, seemingly marking an attitude of inclusivity, diversity and religious tolerance by fashion brands in the West, now, in 2020, many Muslim women feel that weve progressed beyond this stage, and that the word modest is no longer needed as a descriptor for these collections.. Halimas words caused a huge ripple in our community. Studies show that theres a growing appetite among non-Muslims or those without religious affiliation for modest wear, be it in Muslim majority countries like Malaysia or Saudia Arabia, or within Western countries. For outsiders looking in, the nature of the demand might be considered difficult to pin down. Sakina Antelawala, designer at modest fashion online store Kashkha, shares a similar opinion, saying that to compartmentalize anything in fashion would be stifling. Many women just want to go through their day without dealing with hearing a thousand things from a thousand people. Influencers who are proponents of modest fashion speak to a like group of women, who, perhaps, due to their circumstances, cannot take inspiration from your usual style bloggers and wear what they do. There are real economic and financial impediments for Muslim women and girls who wish to follow their religious prescriptions. Modest fashion as a market term emerged in the mid-2000s with a number of brands and because of the designers and creative entrepreneurs who themselves were religiously motivated, according to Dr. Reem Tariq El Mutwalli, founder of Zay Initiative, the Middle Easts first fashion-history archive. While it really doesnt matter what women wear, because rapes happen to women in ghunghats and burkhas alike, can we honestly say women are not shamed for short clothes? Subscribe to iDiva and never miss out on the fun! Are Muslim women being asked to change too much of themselves in order to fit in? From the protests following a hijab ban in schools in Indias Karnataka Udupi district and a proposed hijab ban for Germanys public sector, Muslim women who have come of age in the post 9/11 world will tell you that the demonisation of the hijab and the niqab are just one of the many forms of Islamophobia the community has long endured especially in Western European countries like France. She describes Gaps back-to-school-ads in summer 2018 featuring a young girl in a hijab, and draws comparison to how, meanwhile that same year, children in Delaware were forced to leave a public swimming pool for fears that their hijabs could clog the filtration system. Of course, non-Muslim women wearing modest apparel is not criminal. In France a hijab is illegal, but a head scarf is chic says one, while another says France loves headscarves when white women are wearing them (she looks great tho [sic] no notes on that!! Many people thought that the fashion market was controlled by the male vision and that male designers were dictating what women should wear. Even to simply search for items best suited to the needs of the modestly dressed woman, one has to go through an overload of items, according to Zargarpur. I love shopping at brands that address my needs for modest dressing and styling, and honestly, I dont have the time to dig through hundreds of items or shop dozens of stores only to find the few pieces that may work for me, without layering it. https://t.co/zvzJJeD5V7. For those who (like me) wondered what is modest fashion?, the concept seems to boil down to a more covered look longer sleeves, longer hemlines, no cleavage. As founder of e-retailer Modestwist.com, John is setting out to address the Generation Z or Millennial audience that would normally shop for affordable clothing in stores like H&M and Zara here in the U.K.. However, it should be acategorywith demure and modest aesthetic that stands out and is not lost with the rest of the trends and sub-cultures in fashion.. It is the inability to go to school and university, compete in sports, facing discrimination at work or being attacked on the streets wherever they may be. So, you dont dress that way again. The pressure is to want to appear more normal, to wipe away this negative stereotype associated with women in hijab, she says. SignUp to never miss a Story again. It is about seeing the issue face on, and adapting yourself to create acceptance and make this issue, a resolution. For as long as I can remember, the media has portrayed women in hijab as oppressed. Lifestyle, Events and My mother was a modest dresser, favouring practical and fairly androgynous clothing when I was growing up (think jeans and a skivvy or pullover, 70s style). Modestwist is by no means alone in this market. Start a conversation, not a fire. I am sitting on a plane reading an article by Dan Ahwa about modest fashion. The trend for oversize silhouettes and loose layers has united fashion fans, religious and secular, and has been in part an attempt by western brands to buy into the lucrative market of Muslim consumers. Customer Neglect Is Real And Needs To Be Managed, As Do Customer Expectations. In the past years maybeMuslim women were used to buying just their type of clothes and have a traditional look, but now they buy from all over the world and any kind of brand and they mix western clothes as they prefer Chiara Taffarello (founder of Munamer). Given those numbers, it would be tempting to assume that the ever-nimble fashion industry is already fully addressing this burgeoning demand. On one view, more revealing clothing is designed for the male gaze. Aden, too, said she felt this pressure. During the colonial period, the wives of French army officers presided over the public unveiling of Algerian women. It takes less than a minute! Original reporting and incisive analysis, direct from the Guardian every morning. Before commenting on the fact that such modest-fashion influencers are spreading regressive ideas, we need to understand the fact that a lot of women have to opt for modest clothing because the people around them are not accepting of anything else. Do we still use the term "modest fashion"? To view or add a comment, sign in Every time you try to wear something sleeveless or body hugging and step out, your parents chide you. TikTok has emerged as a particularly important conduit to consumers. I would rather select from different styles of modest wear in one segment of the store, Zargarpur told Salaam Gateway. That way, the same dress or outfit would be desirable or available for a lady who prefers a modest way of dressing and it would be the same for someone who is comfortable wearing all typesof clothing. Here's How To Regain Momentum. Ahmed Zedan, COO and co-founder of New York-based Haute Hijab told Salaam Gateway he believes the road to normalization is still early. The aforementioned high end has attracted fashion brands but John says even the emphasis is a dressing for occasions and traditional Islamic looks. Isnt the point of feminism basically to let women live? It is for this reason that Cline Semaans suggestion that colonialism is not a thing of the past, but an economic reality, rings particularly true in the case of the Vogue France post and other such examples. The example of the shaving of enslaved African womens hair was a clear precedent that ownership of their identities was inextricably linked to material benefits or labour production. Having decided to start a modest retail brand, she visited China to discuss manufacturing and found there was very little awareness of the fashion requirements of Muslim women. The most extreme response could only ever be to ban it or other ituntil now, where it appears that it is appropriate and French for a non-Muslim white woman to wear within high culture. Different faiths have different parameters and there are also discussions and disputes within faiths and denominations, said Dr. El Mutwalli. Although, so far, her clients have always taken her concerns on board, this ties into a huge pressure on Muslim women to look more western in any situation. Looking back now I did what I said I would never do, she wrote, which is compromise who I am in order to fit in.. We just passed the novelty phase. Well, the same way plus size, maternity, tall or petite consumers are communicated to, of course these groups of consumers were once not marketed to in the same way other groups are, but this changed as society and technology changed. Rethinking The Pipeline: Should Europes Founders Widen The Talent Net? Dolce & Gabbana now sells abayas, the article says, Nike stocks hijabs for athletes. Turkey's first Modanisa Istanbul Modest Fashion Week in May, 2016. And the company is finding customers in unexpected places. Especially online imagine how many competitive brands, categories and styles there are.. Finding something fashionable but also conservative Ghizian Guenez (founder of The Modest). That is why the core contention should not be that Julia Fox wore a headscarf in the photo, it is the meaning that Vogue France gave it, in light of Frances political atmosphere. Vogue Frances faux pas should be understood within Frances historical context, as it relates to the descendants of its former Muslim colonies. My sisters and friends who are Muslim don't have the same luxury; they are having to shop between 6-8 retailers to find suitable attire that can be deemed modest. This shift has also seen the headscarf become increasingly acceptable, even covetable, in western fashion, with Nike, Uniqlo, Liberty, Tommy Hilfiger and Dolce & Gabbana among the brands selling scarves overtly tailored for use as hijabs in recent years. At the end of the day, its just a label, and smart, conscious Muslim consumers should be looking beyond mere labels, and deeper into the ethos and ethics of the brands they shop from., (Reporting by Heba Hashem; Editing by Emmy Abdul Alim [emailprotected]), SalaamGateway.com 2020All Rights Reserved, Get Islamic economy and Halal Industry updates in your inbox, By submitting this form you are acknowledging that you have read and agree to our It is about finding a piece of clothing that represents your style, to make a consumer feel part of fashion, so she/he can express themselves in the way they want to. Her inclusion was a win-win for the western fashion industry, which slapped itself on the back for doing a service to diversity, while also attracting a profitable new audience. So in September of this year, Modestwist launched as a global business, promoting itself via social channels and influencers and Pinterest. This shift has, according to Hussain, left those adopting a less commercial look behind. Shouldnt our priority be making this world a place where womens clothing is not commented on at all? Maybe it is power dressing, in the true sense of the word. The launch got the business noticed. Irish retailer Primarks recent launch of an autumn/winter modest collection sparked mixed reactions on social media. That is until modest fashion came along and the conversation for some-part has shifted, says Hussain. Muslim women need and deserve their own segment in fashion and without it, mainstream brands would not put the attention to detail of collections being longer and looser, she added. Perhaps we are expecting too much from an industry that is as obtuse in properly acknowledging its role in the promotion of Eurocentric beauty standards. In fashion, nothing has illustrated the tension as clearly as the story of Halima Aden, the trailblazing hijab-wearing Muslim model who was celebrated as an icon of inclusivity when she made her debut at Kanye Wests New York fashion week show in 2017, then walked for Alberta Ferretti and Maxmara in Milan. The aim is to ensure Muslim women doing the same are not considered to be. If you wear short clothes, youre slut-shamed If you dress modestly, youre a behenji Can women win? A well known fashion brand announcing a modest collection feels so dated to me now
I mean where do I start? Why should the onus of putting oneself through the torture of living as a free woman in a society not ready for free women, be on women? The popularity of this look much copied among the army of teenage girls who look to social media for tips on wearing the hijab seems to have helped muddy mainstream fashions understanding of what a hijab actually is. You may opt-out by. Courses, the road to normalization is still early, https://salaamgateway.com/story/is-it-time-to-rip-off-the-modest-and-just-call-it-fashion. But we may never know, because Vogue France deleted the caption, without choosing to acknowledge it. Reach thousands of Islamic economy businesses and professionals. The reason is simple. She contrasted these images with photographs wearing coverings she was comfortable in, which covered her ears, neck, shoulders and chest. Everyone was talking about it, says influencer Sebina Hussain, an influencer also known online as Sebinaah, who works with brands including Viktor & Rolf and Swarovski. There is a great acceptance to plus size women in the media, which then creates a need in the market. Thats why we see the term being used so extensively and maybe overused to a certain extent, said Dr. El Mutwalli. Victim-blaming women who are having to live like this does the opposite of catalyse progress. You can unsubscribe anytime. Even in Turkey - another clothes manufacturing hub - local designers and manufacturers were focused on their own domestic market and gave little thought to the possibilities of supplying Muslims in Western Europe and beyond. ).It comes amid a trend of more modest fashion choices that the Guardian speculatively describes as the the great cover up. Its smart to keep that segment as a proper category. Just as there is no single definition of modesty. What we see today may work for some modest dressing women, but not for hijab-wearing modest dressers like me, because lately I find long dresses not long enough and almost always, they come with shorter sleeves. But two months ago, Aden announced that she was quitting the fashion industry because she felt the work had compromised her religious beliefs particularly those concerning the hijab. A post shared by Vogue France (@voguefrance). But it is a form of cognitive dissonance for Vogue France to utilise this to undercut Muslim women or other women of faith. But now more women are going into the market and asserting their own ideas and identities, so these trends may change and evolve as you go.. I believe there is no single definition of a Muslim woman. For instance, in the Orthodox Jewish world, tzniut (Hebrew) or tznius (Yiddish)governs the guidelines for modesty while Rasta women are also expected to cover their hair and dress in loose clothing. While modest fashion emerged as a response to a market gap, she believes it now needs to be integrated into the seasonal clothing ranges of all brands, and not considered as a separate range. Perhaps we are expecting too much from an industry that is as obtuse in properly acknowledging its role in the promotion of Eurocentric beauty standards, the use of sweatshops and the contribution it has made in harming the environment. To view or add a comment, sign in. Why is this market still not being communicated to correctly, and how can this be improved upon, and hopefully result in a change in the fashion industry? Why is there this need to separate modest clothes from normal clothes??? Modesty -as promoted by a number of fashion influencers - became something that was of interest not just to Muslims but to a broader audience of women. Reina Lewis, professor of cultural studies at London College of Fashion says religious cultures are very often relegated to aesthetic inspiration. The spectrum is pretty wide and includes everything from trench coats, oversized jumpers and midi dresses, to the burkini. It was a breakthrough moment. Until then, as Adens story has shown, the space that fashion has created so far for the hijab has been one in its own image: confined, reductive and limited. Those are the brands that dont cater specifically to modest fashion but rather add a few pieces here and there to their range seasonally, and that to me is just not enough.. As Ahwa says, modest fashion might be seen as regressive as a result. In her case, as a 19-year-old newcomer to the fashion industry, she said she felt too scared to speak up on photoshoots. Low cut tops and short skirts can create logistical and practical difficulties. Hijab bans are continually discussed in France while Switzerland is to hold a referendum on burqas this week, even as governments around the world encourage the use of face masks. Hence the rise of Modest Fashion. The term began to find currency around 2017 and 2018 and before the decade was out it had become a recognisable trend. However, there is another reason why feminist women choose to dress modestly, and it has nothing to do with practicality and everything to do with how women are treated/perceived in the world. Employers and the fashion industry need to learn the language of modest fashion.. Until the situation changes on the ground for French Muslim women (there is an impending presidential election in April this year, so probably not), the most appropriate caption for the Julia Fox photo is Non au foulard (No to the headscarf). Fighting that off takes a toll. And there are spiritual and cultural connations associated with dressing modestly for Black Muslim women. In todays more progressive fashion industry, modest fashion should exist and sit alongside the rest of the fashion categories. Can we blame her? Even in the case of fashion staples - such as the plain white T - the neckline may be too low and the sleeves too high. For instance, Modest clothing has already made something of a splash at events such as London fashion week, but that represents just a subset of the market. This is a marketplace with quite a lot of nuance. Robots And Machines Making Work Inclusive, 4 Tips That Will Help You Become More Persuasive, How This Propolis-Centric Business Is Growing While Helping The Bees, Ukraine Startup Translates Videos For Zelensky, While Adjusting To Work In A War Zone, Hit A Business Growth Plateau? Its not so much about what women wear, but about why we comment so much on someone elses personal choices, Celebrating 5 Inspiring & Brave Women Who Deserve A Biopic By Bollywood, 5 Recommended Essential Health Checks For Woman To Get In The Year. Most Muslim women shop from the regular sections of mainstream stores and are simply savvy with their styling they dont require detached modest wear ranges while shopping, she said. One can say (as I do) that women shouldnt be made to feel ashamed of their bodies or be anything less than open and free about how they look, but at the same time they should not feel any pressure to be on display (for men). There will always be a need in the fashion market for modest consumers, but it is not widely accepted in society: cultural appropriation, racism, islamophobia, politics, judgement, all reasons why there is an underlining hatred to these consumers. odest fashion has been a defining style for the past decade. High-end and high-street brands have jumped on the modest fashion bandwagon, releasing dedicated modest fashion collections that target Muslim spending power, Lodi told Salaam Gateway. In her experience, this is a market that still sits outside the radar screen of investors and manufacturers. Isnt telling women who opt for modest fashion items a transgression against individual agency? Perhaps thats not surprising. Just to throw a curveball here. A number of Muslim women would prefer modesty be seamlessly integrated into the main seasonal collections of fashion brands, as separating them and labelling them as modest may set them apart from mainstream fashion and further alienate Muslim women, said Hafsa Lodi, a Dubai-based American journalist who has been covering fashion in the Middle East for the last decade.
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