It is used because it is much simpler to measure voltage rather than current with a multimeter. Non uniform scaling of the source STL needs to occur to suit certain nozzle/layer combinations. Set multimeter to DC voltage, max 2V range. The U1 means the result is stored to RAM and we can save it immediately to EEPROM by sending: For the bed, PIDTEMPBED must be enabled in the firmware, then the command is quite similar: The bed is selected with E-1, and the temp set to 60 degrees. You can also issue two 10mm movements and see if any error is consistent. This is achieved by moving the corners of the bed up and down relative to each other. Linear advance is filament dependent. Typically, this procedure is done with the bed at printing temperature (essential), and the nozzle close to printing temperature - just cool enough to prevent filament oozing out (optional). You can use these to turn the levelling knobs in each corner until they are consistent, or ensure your ABL system is working if you have one in place. Like a motor vehicle, it needs time to accelerate. One obvious area is whether there are gaps inbetween individual extrusions (flow rate too low) or the individual extrusions overlap too much and bulge (flow rate too high). It also introduces more surface defects such as ringing/ghosting. Use the buttons in your chosen software to move one axis a designated distance. Part surface may be shinier. If steps are being skipped/missed. After this change is made, the same procedures apply: You can set your RMS current directly in the firmware when compiling. Hopefully, there will be a clear difference between the segments that reflect the temperatures you entered. This gcode is instead provided by the site. A 0.1mm feeler gauge can be used, but make sure it doesn't have any oil on it that will contaminate the bed surface. The K factor relates to the amount of flex or compression in the filament and the length of the path between the extruder and hot end. You can enter M503 into a terminal and these values will be reported. A lower K value suits a direct drive extruder and more rigid filaments. Save config to restart Klipper with the changes in effect. Please note that non Simplify users can simply open this file in a text editor and everything will be listed. This includes but is not limited to: mainboard cooling fan, heat sink fan, part cooling fan, PSU fan. We can store the new value(s) to EEPROM by sending: You would then repeat the test with all of the acceleration values locked at your preferred value for each segment, but this time varying jerk/junction deviation. The following may apply in these cases: If tuning the stepper driver current is unable to find a sweet spot, the good news is you can upgrade to a larger stepper motor easily in most cases. Unfortunately, I can't provide pre-sliced gcode for this process. Step 1: Click HERE to download the calibration cube file. Perhaps the flow rate should be used to only make very small adjustments. For example, the cube shown in the thumbnail of the XYZ 20mm calibration cube by iDig3Dprinting: This print shows clear signs of under extrusion. An excellent resource exists in the Prusa RepRap Calculator. If this is inconvenient, the process below aims to minimise restrictions by extruding very slowly and with a slightly higher temperature. This is because the printed part is the result of many more variables other than how far the X, Y and Z axes are moving during the print. If there are no major issues, please continue to the next step. As the linear advance K factor is filament dependent, this may not be the best solution if you print with varied filaments, and instead you may prefer to save using your slicer profile. We will now produce an acceleration tower to conveniently test back to back settings in a single print. That means having filament loaded and the part cooling fan on for PLA temperatures. You can change these values and restart Klipper to raise them, or temporarily override by entering: in the terminal where 600 is a max acceleration/accel to decel of 600 mm/sec/sec. One strategy is to calculate the fastest your 3D printer can move while extruding cleanly, set this feedrate in the slicer, and then tune acceleration to meet this speed. To ensure the printer bed is both level and an appropriate distance from the nozzle. A universal design is tricky because of variations in 3D printers and dial gauges, but the example I used is here: Dial gauge mount on Thingiverse. Nema17 steppers have the same mounting pattern and output shaft diameter, however you should still check your machine to ensure there is enough room for a longer stepper before any purchase. Here is the STL if you would like to slice a similar test yourself: temperaturetowerv2.stl. Your maximum reliable XY feedrate is 90 mm per second. Typically these drivers have the peak/max current set. Each slicer has a setting to control the overall amount of filament extruded by the printer. Strip out all start and end gcode. Therefore, it is worth double checking the following aspects of the printer: If the measured motion is incorrect but is also inconsistent, as in drifting further away from 0 each time it returns to the starting point, it may indicate the presence of backlash or binding in that axis. In this case, however, due to the use of vase mode, M220 is a simple way for us to start with a slower feedrate and easily increase it throughout the print at set height intervals. Therefore, this test is unique from the others on this site which is why the flow rate doesn't necessarily translate. If the distance of the movement is short, it may not even have time to reach the specified speed. Take measurements in multiple places/sides and average them. I would then repeat the test, setting the same retraction distance for each segment and instead altering the retraction speed to dial that in. The printability can also be verified by testing whether the block can be printed with any deformity at a certain temperature and environment. In a 3D printer, due to the pressure required to push the molten filament through the small opening of the nozzle, there is a small time delay from when the extruder pushes the filament to when it actually comes out the nozzle. Although it can be hard coded into the firmware by recompiling Marlin, it is far easier to use gcode to achieve this. Any time the frame or mechanical components have been disassembled or replaced. This step is not necessary for many people, but is still worth doing if you are going over the machine in detail. Although starting a new print or power cycling will achieve this, it may be safer to put the printer back into absolute position mode after completing this calibration by sending: For Klipper and Rep Rap Firmware, M82 is used to select absolute extruder movement instead. It is also worth checking if the nozzle is properly tightened. It is common to follow up with a first layer calibration print, and 'live level' the bed by continuing to adjust the knobs when the print is under way. Changing more than one parameter makes is hard to tell what made the difference. The downside of this is a longer time required to reach printing tempratures and additional load on the Y stepper (on an i3/'bed slinger' style printer) that may require lower print speed/acceleration. Ensure all belts are properly aligned and tensioned sufficiently. You can clearly see the vertical difference between the probing point (tip of BLtouch) and the tip of the nozzle. Don't forget to Store Settings to save to EEPROM. We will be tuning both of these parameters with another tower. Entering M503 via terminal will give a list of printer variables: The image below shows an example of each of these scenarios: Use the following form to customise the gcode to your liking: Klipper uses both ACCEL and ACCEL_TO_DECEL. Generally the lowest temperatures would be at the start of the print (segment A) and the increase up to the highest by the top of the print (segment E). If you would like to be able to customise additional parameters for a retraction test, Prahjister has made a great tool: Retraction Calibration Tool. Before measurement, we must know the range of motion of the dial gauge and mount accordingly. Step 8: (Optional) Repeat the test with different filaments for more accurate results. Any time the bed is changed, such as adding a glass/mirror plate, magnetic spring steel sheet and/or under bed insulation. Each location will have one eccentric nut. To determine RMS, divide the peak current by 1.41. This will set movement to relative and then extrude 50mm of filament at a feedrate of 2mm/sec: Inspect extruded filament for consistency. Warning! In the event that you use start gcode, unless an M500 follows, the setting of the K factor will be temporary. I have created a custom gcode generator to assist in making testing towers. Like the TMC drivers covered in the gcode section, the current for the TMC2208 (legacy mode) is set not as a peak, but instead as RMS. This used to be a laborious process and beyond the skills of many users. Find specific lines relating to retraction and zhop, replacing them with comments this site expects to find and modify further. If the dial gauge can only move 25mm, there is no point in requesting a 30mm movement. If your results vary, trying turning this setting off in your own slicer too. If the objects you are printing are not the correct size, then adjusting the X, Y and Z steps is a suitable step to fix the problem. You can change travel acceleration with. If you wish this changes to be permanent, save to EEPROM with M500. If we imagine the dial gauge was mounted 45 degrees to the axis being measured, we can see that the reading will only be half of the movement. The original file is still available here: retractiontest.stl. While this is a very valid test to measure the accuracy of their printed parts, it is not a suitable measurement to base adjustments of the X, Y and Z steps per mm. If BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET is enabled in Marlin, setting the Z offset can easily be done as the first layer goes down. OSSFILA would like to invite any pioneers to take part in the study. These settings have differences, but both are essentially responsible for making sure the printer does not come to a complete stop between each movement, but rather decelerates an appropriate amount depending on the angle of the next 'corner'. Reverse the movement using the opposing button and see if the machine returns back to 0.00 on the dial gauge. Factor in the tiny movement that comes via your hands in supporting the dial gauge and you have another contributor. Another suitable video for seeing some of these procedures is here: To ensure the heating of the 3D printer nozzle and bed are safe, stable and consistent. Save config.g to restart the firmware with the changes in effect. After flashing firmware, remember that the previous value may still be stored in the EEPROM. In this case, you need to insert M301 (hot end) or M304 (bed) into your slicer start gcode so the correct settings are loaded before each print. Special note: Prusa has disabled M500 saving to EEPROM on some printers (eg. Yes, we do care about the accuracy of the final part, but we need a better way to measure X, Y and Z movement. If you are not interested in printing as fast as possible, skip to the next section. Lubrication is an important maintenance task to perform regularly. You may need to home the machine first, as some firmware configurations will not allow manual movements until this takes place. It is important to understand how feedrate is handled by the slicer software. Unfortunately, sometimes a stepper motor may be running hot and still missing steps. Nozzle priming has been turned off to avoid bed clips or problems with delta printers. Retreive them and use them as follows for the hot end: This will set the PID values for the default hot end, eg. This means requesting 100mm of filament adds 100mm to the current position, instead of moving to the specific position of 100mm. It has a significant impact of retraction (reducing the need), so after configuring linear advance you may need to revisit retraction. Initial calibration, any time the hot end is changed, when trying a new type/brand of filament. The values will be shown on the LCD: To the print head, so that it can measure the relative movement of the Z axis up and down. Dialing in the first layer has now been moved to its own tab. This is where our calipers or preferably a dial gauge comes in handy. If you still need to adjust your steps per unit, you can use the following calculator to determine the correct value, based on your dial gauge recordings: Previous steps per unit as reported by M503: You may wish to repeat this test with the new X/Y/Z steps value to verify. Inspect your finished print. Special thanks to my Patrons for suggesting this video, helping define the contents and testing/proofing. My previous hot end temperature was 200 degrees for this printer, but I will consider raising it to 210 degrees after this test to gain some interlayer strength without any trouble with part cooling. This page serves as a companion for this video: 3D printer calibration revolutionised - Step by step to better print quality. Linear advance: Linear advance, covered later in this guide, can drastically improve the accuracy of our extrusion. The gcode on this site originally had a flow rate of 90% when sliced, so applying your 96% to that gives a final result of 86.4%, not 96%. One has a resistor labelled R100 on the bottom, and on the other the resistor is labelled R220. Linear advance is often not enabled by default in Marlin firmware. The gcode generated by this page is originally from Simplify3D. Besides hot end temperature, there are five parameters we will be tuning relating to retraction. An example of setting the X axis current to 680 would be: Don't forget to save the value to EEPROM afterwards with: Finally, the LCD Configuration menu can be used to set the RMS current. If the stepper motor is too hot to touch, the stepper current needs to be decreased. Watch the videos and then work through each tab. It has a higher degree of difficulty due to needing more parameters but is ultimately more powerful. If the flow rate is decreased, less filament will be extruded. TPU doesn't need a particularly high temperature hot end to melt it properly, but many extruder drives struggle to grip and push the filament towards the hot end without it buckling and jamming. The aim is to have a reasonably fast print time without inducing excessive ringing/ghosting. If your printer has a motion system based on V-roller wheels riding on V-slot extrusions, check they are properly tensioned. Please see the note on the bottom of the. The filament will be softer so ooze and stringing may be increased, and some surface detail potentially lost, especially on overhangs. This means we can increase the print feedrate without worrying about the travel feedrate being proportionally increased to a dangerous value. A lower nozzle temperature should result in weaker parts, particularly interlayer adhesion. Traditionally the movement of the extruder is matched to XY movements of the printer, so this means the start of a line will be under-extruded and the end of the line will be over-extruded. Your slicer profile settings will also be different in other ways, which further complicates matters. If you would like to see it, you can toggle visibility here. You may notice settings related to temperatures, retraction, Z hop, part cooling, etc have set values, but these are altered by post processing scripts and this site to ultimately be set using the user's inputs. This will remove torque and make the motor (and the driver) run cooler. It may be easier to simply replace than repair if you suspect a fan is failing. Extruder > Extrusion width > tick manual >. The S value can be altered to suit your most common printing temperature. The filament will be firmer so ooze and stringing may be reduced, with good surface detail, especially on overhangs. Terminal software such as Pronterface or Octoprint. Probing the bed and building a mesh only accounts for an uneven or warped bed. Assuming the probe is triggered the same way on the bed surface, the Z offset is applied to this trigger point and the first layer height should be the same. After you find the limiting speed, back off and repeat the test at a lower feedrate several times in a row until you are confident of reliable and repeatable extrusion. Seen below is this setting in PrusaSlicer (found in Print Settings > Advanced > Slicing): A similar feature exists in Cura (found in Shell > Horizontal expansion): Experimentation with these features would need to be undertaken to fully understand their advantages and disadvantages. Another relevant variable that ruins our results. Therefore, the firmware must be recompiled with linear advance included. In 3D printing, the most common feedrate units are mm/sec and mm/min. Here is the STL if you would like to slice a similar test yourself: retractiontestv2.stl. If you can't replicate the results, please work through the following: To set the ideal printing temperature for the hot end for a given filament. On the other hand, interested user can also print and assess the tolerance using our online report generator. "My creality silent board has R150 sense resistors not R100 so the VREF formula is wrong, for details here": EEVBLOG. Cura, PrusaSlicer and SuperSlicer all have the capability to control these parameters from the slicer by inserting appropriate gcode. In the 'Stepper Motor' section, you can enter the specifications of your machine and the correct steps per unit will be calculated. Connect black/negative multimeter probe to ground. OSSFILA is developing a benchmarking database allowing the community and professionals to input their calibration block print measurement and compare the result with the global data contributed comprised of other 3D printer models. Instead, I have relied on this forum post. The gcode generated by the this page has this setting OFF. Therefore we want to measure the movement of each axis when not printing, comparing target vs actual movement. In this case the print will start sooner, since we do not need to wait for a new mesh to be probed, although it may not be as accurate if anything has changed since probing. This can determined with the handy acceleration calculator, available on the Prusa website. The following form will create a temperature tower to conveniently test back to back parameters in the same print.
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